Hi all, this guide is purely a bit of info on anyone installing on a Bosch 2000/3000 system as it will hopefully save someone some time. When I began I thought there would be heaps of info on this system, but there was really none that had been documented. I'm tech orientated, but definitely not a professional at any individual area, so don't shoot the messenger if this guide is incorrect for your use case in any way or there are mistakes.

There are 3 different versions of the instructional guide that I found, one was the 'Installer', the second was the 'User' and the third was the 'Quick reference'. The quick reference was the only one with a board schematic which proved to be super helpful if your alarm is in a hard to reach place and you can't spend heaps of time staring at it up a ladder (page 54-55). The installer had the most information of course and proved to be invaluable at just explaining out everything in detail.

When you open your security box for the first time, you will most likely encounter the tamper that will trigger the alarm, there's a few easy ways to deal with this:
- Turn the system off at the mains, open the cover, triggering the tamper, quickly pull the battery leads.
- Put the system in 'Walk test mode' by inputting your installer code followed by 7 then #. (This method still set off the alarm for me, but I've read others had success with it)
- Disable the tamper through the keypad. (I didn't attempt this method)
Once the lid is off you can disconnect the tamper wires and rig a wire in it's place to complete the circuit and power the system back on.

With the 2000 series you generally only have 4 easily accessible zones without using resistors to use those same zones to bump it up to 8. I only had three PIRs, so had zone 4 free. I left zones 1-3 as is and enabled zone 4 to be a key switch for arming/disarming the alarm.

There are 4 programmable outlets on the board that sit in between the second SDI2 bus (Second keypad could be wired here) and Zone 1. Output 1 is already configured to the 'Horn speaker', Output 3 is the 'Strobe' and 4 isn't marked as such and is a relay for the 'Siren'. Output 2 is defaultly set as 'Fire alarm with verification' which in my case is unused (Most Australian home alarms would be in the same boat here I would think). Output 2 is what I used to monitor if the alarm was armed or disarmed. The relay output is what I used to monitor if the alarm had been activated.
In saying all of this, your alarm installer could have changed this all to suit your individual house, so it's best to check all the values correspond to the default before changing them, so you can undo something if you change it.

The programming of the alarm was actually super easy, you just navigate to a certain location, it will show you the value stored and you either verify it or change it and save.

I won't go into how to individually wire it, as you need to be semi capable here and understand how your alarm works in a basic fashion before poking around.

The info for each zone can be found on Page 94 onwards of the installer manual, it shows what can be changed under each zone and the address to navigate to.

First up I needed to change Zone 4 to a key switch. The zones can be accessed at the following locations: Zone 1 - 267, Zone 2 - 274, Zone 3 - 281 and Zone 4 - 288. These can simply be accessed by 'Installer code + #, then '288 + #' for Zone 4. A number will be displayed indicating what it is programmed as, zone types can be found on page 97 - 99 of the installer manual. To change this to a key switch, type '11 + *'.
Things get a little trickier here, Key switches need an additional piece of information programmed called 'Key switch zone options' and this gets placed into where you would normally program 'Zone options 1' for a zone other than a key switch. These were found on page 103 and a 'Momentary arm and disarm in Away mode' made the most sense for my setup as I don't use Stay mode and only had one free zone without messing around with resistors. 
To change Zone 4 key switch to the above I then needed to enter '291 + #' and '8*'. Now we have changed Zone 4 to a key switch and indicated the type of key switch to be momentary arm/disarm in away mode. To save all that use '960 + #', if you made a mistake at any point or just want to have a poke around first and exit without saving, use '958 + #'.

Next was programming the programmable outputs, I started with Output 2 as it wasn't being used. Have a look at page 117 onwards as that has all the info in front of you. Each output acts differently and not everything will trigger the Konnected board, so understanding it will help a lot, took me a while to work out what I was doing wrong.  

I needed to change Output 2 from a fire zone to a 'System armed zone'. This requires changing two pieces of information (Event codes) as there are more than 15 possible outputs so won't fit into one address. They are all found on pages 121 - 122 (Explanations follow on 123) and System armed was just what was logical for me. That required changing 0442 to a 0 and 0443 to a 1 (Not sure if you need the 0, but read it in a guide somewhere so did it as well!).  There are 4 more pieces of information here as well, Polarity,  Time Base, Time Base multiplier and another Time Base multiplier. Polarity is super important for the monitoring, but I'll come back to that. Polarity is found on page 130 and I used 'Normally low, Going open', basically the circuit is closed when the event has not happened and is open when the event occurs. Address 0444 needs to change to 8 for this. I didn't require any of the time based programming, so I changed 0445, 0446 and 0447 to 0.

I didn't have another zone to monitor if the alarm had been triggered by programming it from scratch, but realised I could do it from the siren being triggered. I thought Output 1 would work for this, but when I played around with it and couldn't get it to work, I realised why. The polarity of Output 1 is set to 0 (Not used), so this will not register a response to the board (This is what I was talking about with my last paragraph, understanding that would have saved me some time!). I then changed to the Output labelled 'AUX' as this is the siren output and has a polarity of 1 'Normally open, going Low' (Otherwise the siren would be sounding when the alarm was not triggered). I had to tune the potentiometer all the way up for this on the Konnected board.

Make sure you reconnect the tamper and be prepared for an alarm depending upon how you did it.

This should get you up and running to a basic level, I still haven't finetuned Home assistant, but have everything indicating correctly to me and can arm/disarm the system. Just remember you may have to invert zones in your setup to get the sensor working as it should, but you'll work it out when it gives you the opposite outcome.

Happy tinkering!

  • Thanks for your guide, I have recently connected my Bosch 2000 alarm to the Konnected interface following your instructions, but no matter what I did the output 4 with Polarity 1 was not captured by the connected interface module, then I changed that to output 1 which has polarity 0 and horn was connected to, it worked instantly with no problem. It seems polarity is not that important. I mentioned this just in case someone else is in this situation. 

  • To overcome this, UART uses synchronization bits i.e. start and end bits as well as a pre-agreed data rate (usually 9600 bps). If the transmitter and receiver baud rates do not match, the data io games sent from the transmitter will not reach the receiver properly and the received data is incorrect. 

Login or Signup to post a comment