Finished my install and very pleased with the system! I did run into some minor problems with the prior ADT install regarding improperly labeled wires, but Konnected makes it really easy to work out those bugs and test your connections since you can carry your phone with you while testing various contacts.

My AT&T wireless access point gave me problems with the discovery of modules, so I did have the unexpected expense of adding a separate router in bridge mode, but that is a plus in the end as the signal is much stronger, I created a channel specifically for Konnected and I can use the Netgear 4G LTE cellular modem for backup internet access.

You can see in the pictures that I chose to mount everything on a board instead of an enclosure. I had read somewhere that the metal enclosures can hinder wireless performance and since all of my equipment is under the landing of the stairs, it's pretty well tamper resistant as it is. I chose the Kindle Fire 7 tablets which were very inexpensive back around the holidays and I followed a YouTube tutorial to install Google Play Store. Each tablet (one upstairs, one downstairs) uses the old wiring for power which is distributed from the main panel. All of my zones and routines are nicely displayed using ActionTiles which is locked down with Fully Kiosk. I was using DAKboard as my screen saver but two minor issues arose. First, in order to dim the screen in the master bedroom at night, I setup a routine in Fully Kiosk for that to happen at 10pm and end at 6am. The problem was that Action Tiles was inaccessible during these hours as the frame (painted to match my ecobee thermostats!) holding the tablets does not provide access to the buttons. In the morning the screen would reappear locked. This simply required an upward sweep to put everything back in order, but it was aggravating. Ultimately, I removed DAKboard and I just use a black screen on a 30 second timeout via Fully Kiosk. Tap the screen and there's my ActionTiles panel! Also, the colorful screen savers used a fair amount of power and I ended up changing my adapter from 5V 2A to 5V 3A in order to keep the tablets charged to 100%. I also added an Amazon Fire Phone at the entrance from my garage which works really well with the Fully Kiosk motion sensor. This only displays three items, alarm state, Home routine and siren / strobe. I did this because I've found presence sensors to be either a little slow to respond or sporadic when batteries get low. I had very poor success using our phones as presence sensors. At a glance, you can see if the system has disarmed and if not, run the Home routine. In the event the alarm is accidentally tripped, the siren / strobe option allows for a quick fix. Each of these is PIN protected. For some odd reason, this phone will not charge via the existing wiring so I will probably install a recessed outlet and mount the phone over the top of it.

One final change I plan to make is replacing my living room motion sensor with my Arlo camera, again  using the existing wiring for power. I could not be more pleased with this system and I hope this little write-up is helpful for others just starting out.

  • great looking install!  painting the tablet frame to match the ecobee was a nice touch. :)


    i also liked your idea of using a phone as another screen at the entrance from the garage -- the presence sensors are hit or miss for me as well so being able to see the status of the alarm and adjust before opening the door would be pretty handy.  i may try something similar with an old galaxy phone i have lying around.


    regarding the amazon fire tablets, are the ads an issue in this type of setup or did you pay the extra $15 to get rid of them?


  • It was quite a while between setting up the tablets and finishing my install, but my recollection is that when going through the steps of installing and running Android and not Amazon's version of it, that gets resolved. See my link to the YouTube tutorial and search for others.
  • What kind of board did you mount everything to and where did you get it?

  • The board is just piece of poplar from HD. I rounded the corners with my jigsaw and used a router to round the edges, then hit it with white spray paint. The hardware is also from HD.
  • Very nice install. Curious as to what kind of pool pump you use that's connected (or perhaps is it just a dry contact sensor?) and are you using SmartThings or something else?

  • I removed the old Intermatic timer and installed a GE Z-Wave Plus Direct Wire 40 amp Smart Switch. You can find it on Amazon. I've also changed out my Rain Bird Irrigation Timer for the Rachio 3. Now that thing's really awesome for those that take the time to set it up properly.
  • Hi, where can i get those extended barrel power plugs? Are these the pictured connectors? https://konnected.io/products/dc-power-pigtail I found the power splitter on amazon, exact match, so thats good. Just trying to solve my last few hurdles, the final power line and the pir's. Everything else is good to go. :) ADT in 2001 left so much slack in the cable box, i have never ending spaghetti flowing from it. On top of that, none of the lines were labled. Even had some dead lines in the mix, what a blast that was. :-)
  • Sounds like you got all of your wiring sorted out (since you know there are inactive lines). One thing I did was to name all of my zones with a prefix for each of my boards (K1 -, K2 -, K3 -), this groups and sorts them all together in Smartthings nicely. That barrel connector is what you're looking for.
  • Ray, did something similar with the tagging myself. Thanks for the confirmation on the DC barrel. 


    The old ADT installers had window screens put in with wire-snap within the mesh. Effectively operates like a reed switch on a door once broken. Granted, weathering has severely damaged a couple window sensors over the years (sun, lightning, rain, hail, etc). Windows are tagged in sets of three, bay window on the north, dining room windows on the south east, and the living room windows on the south (SW-ish) side. Have the window screens tagged to the following: Family Window #[1,2,3] ([NW,N,NE]]. Where the text within the brackets for each have their own designation on the label. On Konnected settings via HA, the labels are just about identical.


    Thanks again! :)

  • Ray, how did you mount the tablet without the power connection located on the side as shown in the installation videos?
  • I used the existing alarm wiring and the Kindle Fire frame available on the Konnected web site. You can see in my pictures the connections for 5V power and on the other end I stripped a micro USB cable and connected the reds and blacks. There's just enough space for the wire to lay behind the tablet when you slide it into the frame.
  • Ray, great install. Thanks for sharing. I'm curious though.. Why 3 modules and not Konnected secondary boards? Can you share a pic of how you wired the Kindles?

  • My setup is one primary and two secondary. My siren and two strobes are all wired together running off the primary, you just need to be aware of the total mA and not exceed the limits of the board. The Kindles use the red and black of the existing wall wiring with a 90* micro USB. court the USB to the desired length and carefully strip the red and black wires. The others are for data transfer and aren't needed. These wires are very fine, so I stripped more length and got a good wrap on the solid copper. You can see the power connection at the other end in the pictures I've provided.
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